Showing posts with label Czech. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Czech. Show all posts

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Home cooked České Budějovice

Here is a picture of Lukaš, I forgot that I had this one. He was a great guy to stay with, full of stories from working on the trains(he is a night conductor on international trains).



The day we left České Budějovice Lukaš's brother made a quick lunch. Actually it was quite and interesting flavor combination. It was a baked pasta dish with chicken breast and pineapple, covered in Edam cheese. Chicken and pineapple go pretty well together I just had never thought about it with pasta before.

Thanks a bunch for the home cooked lunch! I love Couchsurfing.

-NOM!

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Wild mushrooms

We stayed with Lukaš a couchsurfer in České Budějovice. He had just gotten back from a fishing trip with his dad, they didn't catch any fish, but instead a got a prize of wild mushrooms.

We were getting ready for bed and he told us that he had to go cut and dry the mushrooms so we offered to help him. He had his misgivings at first and when we went in to help him he actually said "I can't believe two Americans are helping me cut mushrooms". Apparently it was his least favorite kitchen task. We had fun cutting them and laying them out on screens to dry.

There were all sorts of mushrooms we cut. I didn't know any of their names and Lukaš had a hard time translating them. Because the names wouldn't translate directly into an American name.

Actually we ended up with some pretty patterns naturally from the shape of the mushrooms.


All I really know is that they had a heavenly aroma and filled the house with and earthy mushroomy scent the whole time we were there. I couldn't help but linger over the huge screens and breathe deeply.


Thanks for letting us stay with you Lukaš. I'm glad we could help you cut and dry some mushrooms.

Apparently mushroom hunting is a national past time in the Czeck Republic, and we say many people hauling around large baskets of wild caught mushrooms. Makes me want to buy a mycology book and go hunting myself!

-NOM!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Best indian food outside of India!

On our excursion to České Budějovice we went to an Indian restaurant on the advice of our Finnish friend Tero.


It was called Gateway of India. He said he found it in his guidebook and went the other night and loved it. I was a little skeptical of eating Indian food in a small town in the Czech Republic but man was I proven wrong. This is one of my favorite Indian restaurants anywhere in the world. I'll have to get back to you if we make it to India itself.

The naan came hot out of the Tandoor with a light layer of ghee or clarified butter on it to make it a little more crispy and out of this world delicious. The simplest things are often the hardest to perfect, but this bread was simple and executed perfectly.

  The wood smoked naan was a perfect utensil to eat Butter chicken with. This was random chicken bits cooked in a butter sauce. It's not a spicy dish or "sharp" as our Finnish friend would call it but it has a lot of spices in it. Almonds, chilies, cumin, bay leaf, cloves, cinnamon, garum masala, cardamom, ginger, garlic, tomatoes, coriander, onions, etc. All stewed together to make a heavenly sauce which I eagerly lapped up ever drop of with my naan.


Everyone was quite pleased with their meal and falling over stuffed after it. All over a great place to eat if you're ever in České Budějovice.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

California Salad.

In the Czech Republic, there aren't really very many vegetables. So here is something we found in a store. It's a California Salad!.... In a can! A bit of tuna, some corn and peas of course eaten with a purple disposable plastic spork, it feels like I'm at home already! The second Jessie snapped this picture we were immediately censured for trying to take pictures in a store, just like in the good old USA.

We are traveling again this time through Italy so I think won't really have any time to post much in the next 10 days or so. I really need to devote myself to full time eating while I'm here in Italy.

I'll get back to this blog in late September, but keep on checking back and I'll get back to you soon!

Max

Monday, August 30, 2010

The best view, stewed head and tripe soup.

Jessie, Tero(our new Finnish friend), and myself went to the touristy city of Český Krumlov to see some sites, relax, and enjoy the beautiful summer day. Here is Tero:

After wading through the hordes of chessboard buying tourists, we stumbled to the outskirts of the bustling tourist town and found ourselves in front of this sign:

U BABY! We decided to have lunch here at this dirty shack on the side of the road. Imagine our surprise when we walked back to the terrace and found this:


With a beautiful view of the valley:Right then we knew we made the right choice.

I ordered the tripe soup to start
Really well cooked tripe, not very chewy at all. However the broth somehow reminded me of ramen, I think there was a lot of chili and MSG in the broth, but it was still very tasty and had a whole lot of tripe in it. A very good starter if you ask me. Please don't be afraid of tripe, it has a very meaty flavor, not at all reminiscent of organ meat or liver. The texture is something most Americans have trouble with, but once you get past that, or learn to love it, it's really a treat.

My main course was a pickled headcheese. This is made by boiling a whole pigs head in water or broth and letting it cook to the point that all the meat falls off the skull. They pull out the head and chop the meat and assembled tasty bits into bite size piece then reduce the cooking liquid a little further. Since there are so many tendons and bones in the skull the broth becomes something like a french aspic, or broth with gelatin suspension. When you mix all the meat and the broth together and chill it in a loafpan, it becomes a large solid mass. Thus, headcheese is born.

We're gonna need a porn shot of this one.
Really good and quite tangy from the pickling process. Tasty and filling traditional food.
Jessie ordered a smoked and cured pork belly, covered in grated horseradish, served with really good mustard on the side. I don't think she really knew what she was ordering. A little too fatty for her likes. I thought it was a pretty amazing dish, I know surprise surprise, Max likes pork belly.

It was a magical lunch! Great food and an incredible view. We sat and enjoyed the terrace for almost two hours. New friends, new cities, this is what traveling is all about. Although travel is really a lot of work, sometimes it's moments like this that make it all worthwhile.

-NOM!

Sunday, August 29, 2010

The worst meal in the Czech Republic

We arrived in the town of České Budějovice(cheskay Boodeyovisei) on a Sunday. It's always a mistake to come to a new town on a Sunday in Europe, especially a small town. Everything was closed, the one place we had found that was open was Mc Donalds and, out of principal, we refused to go there. Finally we found a tiny restaurant called Restaurace Sklep that was open, with a single server, who I'm pretty sure went into the back and cooked our meal as well.

After an amusing round of guess the language we figured out that she only spoke Czech and German. There were individual menus for each language, so when we found something we wanted to eat, she would have to flip over to the Czech or German menu's and try to guesstimate which one we wanted. Luckily they were all in the same order. I ordered a pork loin stuffed with bacon and cheese, and Jess ordered a chicken pasta dish. I also ordered a garlic soup with cheesy croutons.

Actually the garlic soup was quite tasty. It tasted a lot like they had made a french onion soup, but substituted garlic for the onions. It was a nice beef broth with a very very strong garlic kick. There was no garlic mass in the soup only tasty croutons and cheese. All around a very tasty interesting dish.

Then the main courses show up. Jess's pasta came in a cloudy watery sauce, covered in cheese. The penne pasta couldn't really be picked up easily since it was cooked to the point of falling apart with a strong breeze. And it was salty. I mean SAAALLTY. Jess always makes fun of me because I like to eat things "properly" salted, so I sometimes add more salt then she thinks is necessary. This, even I admit, tasted like a big bowl of soggy salt... with chicken!


My meal was pretty tasteless. I know! how do you take a pork loin, stuff it with bacon and cheese and make it tasteless?!?!?! It had enough salt, though all of the salt was added after the food was done cooking not while the ingredients were raw(big mistake). The bacon was actually salt cured meat, not smoked. And of course the quality of all of the ingredients was so low I think the market was probably paying them to take it off their hands. I have no idea how they made this anemic sauce with no flavor. To finish it off perfectly, the meat was way overcooked and dry.. STUFFED WITH BACON and yet somehow they managed to dry it out... The corn in the corner mixed with the peas was obviously shucked from a very unripe corn kob and never cooked. Quite raw.

Bad food can happen to the best of us. Words of advise, never travel to a new small town in Europe on a Sunday. Do what everyone else does, relax, eat the food you bought the day before in preparation for Sunday, and try not to eat at Restaurace Sklep.

-NOM!

Saturday, August 28, 2010

U sadu, creepy babies and venison sausage.

We were by the baby tower in Prague; this is a supremely ugly TV tower that dominates a lot of the views around Prague. When you get closer you realize it's covered in a horde of Honda-sized babies crawling all over it's surface.

When you get closer it gets even creepier, as every baby doesn't have a face, but rather a flat spot that just holds a bar code... David Cerny is one strange dude, but he has some awesome art.

We were somehow still quite hungry and we found a little place called U Sadu that we had read about online. It was in the Žižkov(Jzijkov) neighborhood of Prague, which ended up being one of my favorite parts of the city. Tiny streets and a lot of very small shops, also the worst pho we have ever had. Literally later on that week we bought some Pho instant noodles that both of us agreed were far and away superior to the pho we had in Žižkov.

Anyways, back to the traditional Czech food. I can't believe you are still there. Seriously, I've written more then a half dozen posts about Czech food, and you're still there? You must really like me, or your job must really suck. Anywhoo, Im glad you stuck it through to this point.

Jessie ordered a venison sausage. That's right, they butchered bambi's mom. This thing was a freaking behemoth. Put down the foot long, cause this thing makes it look like an anemic dwarf. It was tasty, but to be honest, venison sausage is a lot like any other kind of sausage, once you mix it with extra fat, season the crap out of it, stuff it in a piece of intestine, smoke it and then fry it... Well it pretty much just tastes like sausage. This place doesn't use freshly grated horseradish, instead you get a pile of mushy blended horseradish.


I had the chicken stuffed Bramboraky which is basically a potato pancake wrapped around a good helping of chicken meat which is then fried. Luckily for me it came with a generous side of salad, with actual real vegetables! Maybe you have noticed, but there really aren't very many fresh vegetables in the Czech Republic. It's just not a big part of their cuisine. I have to say... after three weeks of that, I was really craving some nice fresh vegetables.
And more then what was on this little plate. (I know my mom is shocked, SHOCKED to hear this)

-NOM!

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

U Jagušky part VII: Roasted Pork Knee

The first time we tried to order Krakonošovo koleno we were told it would take 90 minutes to cook, would we like to wait? (well actually our non-English speaking waitress finally had to write down 90 min. for us to understand what she was trying to tell us) Unfortunately we were starving and I had to settle for something else that day. Pork knee seems to be on the menu at every traditional Czech restaurant. It's very popular and I can see why.

First of all the name, it means Giant knee, but it is also a reference to the largest mountains in the Czech republic named the Krkonoše mountains, and also the deity who's domain was the protection of these mountains against poachers and a champion for the poor. This is a dish designed and perfected by the poor, it uses a scrap piece of meat and turns it into decadence.

It's basically a huge ball of skin, fat and ewwey gooey meat. You Filipino's know what I'm talking about. This is basically a Czech Crispy Pata. This one is roasted instead of deep fried however. You really can't beat the Filipino's version, I mean come on, whats better then deep fried skin and fat?
So this is a really really big hunk of pork. On the menu they advertise it as 1kg, but as a tiny little side note they charge 13kc per 100g so this dish costs 130kc(6.50) if it weights 1 Kg. That will be important later on.

When the waitress (our favorite waitress at this point) comes to the table with our beers, we immediately tell her we want the pork knee, and using my incredible miming skills (she still doesn't speak English and our Czech has not yet improved) I tell her we want a smaller knee so that we can order appetizers first while we wait the 90 minutes for the knee to be ready. I also mimed that Jessie would be ordering other food, and I wanted a knee just for one person. I wanted to get the order in as early as possible to cut down on the waiting. This was a great idea since it really took over and hour and a half for the knee to be ready.
Then I found out why. Apparently my miming skills aren't as good as I had hoped, as they brought the largest knee they could find. 1.95kg. If my math is correct that's almost 5.2 heart attacks on a single plate. Eat your heart out Fettuccine Alfredo (0.95 heart attacks on a plate).

Much like the Filipino crispy pata which is served with flavored vinegar to help cut through the fattiness, this is served with mustard and horseradish. This dish really is almost impossible to eat without the acid and spicy bite from these condiments. The fat in the meat just gets too greasy in your mouth and coats everything. However a dollop of mustard and horseradish bring out different elements in the meat and fat. Supremely satisfying... But I say with a heavy heart (literally) I did not finish the whole knee, in fact I don't think I even got through half of it! After consuming about 2.5 heart attacks of pork, I had to call it quits, I had it wrapped in tin foil and brought it home to butcher and put into pasta later on.

The bill for this behemoth? 255 kc, just under 13 dollars. Worth it? Definitely. More meat then I expected? Definitely. Necessitate a few more climbs up to Prague castle on the hill? Definitely.

I hope you like my new food porn shots, this is my first set of clumsy attempts to use the ¡SUPERMACRO! settings on my camera.


-NOM!

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

U Jagušky part VI Stump Robber pork neck

Pařez loupežníka Buráska

This means Stump Robber Buráska. I think the stump is a reference to the wooden cutting board this dish comes on. I've never had a pork neck before, I was expecting it to be a little more fatty, and a lot more bony. There were no bones, and little exposed fat. However this was one of the most tender and flavorful pieces of pork I have ever had in my life. I hate to use the word because it's one of the most overused in food writing history, but it was succulent. In the translation of the Czech menu they call it natural pork neck, which may mean organic, or at least an heirloom breed of pig. I want this cut in the US, but I have never been able to find it.

The meat was very simply roasted with salt and pepper. The cut and meat is so good you really don't need to do anything else. The juices running into the circular crack around the cutting board were the best part, using some dark rustic Czech bread as a mop I greedily cleaned my plate. Of course the ever-present mustard and horseradish as accompaniment were a delicious counterpoint to the heavy meat and make great condiments. At 130 Kc this is a great filling and amazing meal.($6.50)(300g uncooked weight).

U Jagušky, will you ever stop pleasing me?

-NOM!

Monday, August 23, 2010

U Jagušky part V: Moravian Sparrows

moravští vrabci = Moravian Sparrows = delicious.

chlupaté knedlíky = hairy dumplings = Yumtastic

So these aren't actually sparrows, the name comes from the small chunks of sparrow sized pork, which is stewed with onion, cumin, and garlic. On the side is Zeli = cabbage, a slightly sweeter Czech version of sauerkraut. This is probably my favorite sauerkraut I've had in the world so far. The hairy dumplings are named this because they are made with grated potatoes. More on this in my Dumplings post.

This is one of my all time favorite Czech meals. Simple, easy, and filling. The sauce is the braising liquid and it all perfectly balances each other, the nice dense potato dumplings, the zing of the fresh zeli, long stewed pork shoulder that falls apart when the fork gets near it. Lets be honest, it would be more healthy with a little green, but I could eat this for lunch every day and never get tired of it. This one I may have to make for myself when I get home.

Here is a recipe I cobbled together

600 g pork shoulder(some recipes are 50/50 belly and shoulder)
15 g oil
100 g onion
salt
cumin
4 cloves sliced garlic
6 g flour
1 tablespoon tomato paste or ketchup
(optional but a little vinegar would go along way here)

Pork cut into uniform chunks. Finely chop onions and fry in oil until golden. Add the meat, dusting it lightly flour and brown the meat. Pour some water, add salt, add tomato paste (ketchup), sliced garlic, cumin, and bake or simmer until the meat softens (1-2 hour). Occasionally stir and pour a little water. It'll be important to keep some water in the dish to keep the meat braising instead of baking, but if you add too much water you'll have to reduce the cooking liquid later to get a nice thick sauce. (Finish sauce at the last minute with a little pad of butter for sheen and creaminess)

Serve with potato dumplings and cabbage.

-NOM!

Sunday, August 22, 2010

U Jagušky part IV "Very typical czech dish"

Every menu I saw this dish on would then follow it by "This is a very typical Czech dish" Svíčková na smetaně, houskové knedlíky. This is some tender beef marinated and served in a creamy gravy topped with lingonberries compote and some whipped cream. On the side are the houskové knedlíky basically boiled bread dumplings. This is the traditional accompaniment of this dish. The gravy and lingonberries reminded me of Swedish meatballs, but instead of a little mass of mystery meat, it's on a beautifully tender chunk of sirloin. Mopping the slightly sweet gravy with the bread dumplings is a real treat.

They say everyone's mom and grandma make this dish best, unfortunately I never found anyone's grandma to make it for me. However U Jagušky makes a pretty great version which I ate with relish.

I'll talk more about knedlíky more in another post.

-NOM!

Saturday, August 21, 2010

U Jagušky Part III Cheese

Pivní sýr or Beer cheese. A soft, not quite runny cheese very pungent in a good way. This one has paprika sprinkled on it. I can't find exactly how it's made, some say it's marinated in beer, or you eat it mixed with beer or you just eat it when you drink beer. All I know it's very very tasty, heavy creamy and soft. The diced raw onions served as an amazing pairing with this strong cheese. It's possible to spread this cheese on bread, but will hold it's shape. Great cheese.


Olomouc cheese spread. Olomouc is a region of the Czech Republic famous for their Olomouc cheese. This is a very stinky sweat sock type of cheese reminiscent of Limburger. They used this as a base mixed with diced onions butter, maybe some flour and milk. It tasted like stinky cheese mixed with raw onions. Incredible. Really a tasty cheese spread. It's not at all creamy but rather a little chunky. I'm not entirely sure if this is cooked at all, but it's served cold. Spread on bread if you like. I actually made a little roll-up with the lettuce on the plate and it was quite good.

Smažený sýr
Breaded and fried edam cheese. Served with a wealth of vegetables, at least it is lot of vegetables for the Czech Republic. On the side is Tartar sauce to dip it in. Very stringy and delicious. Jessie still talks about the big stupid grin on my face when I was eating it. I'm from Wisconsin damn it, I love my cheese!


Now I need to go eat some lunch damn it.

-NOM!

Friday, August 20, 2010

U Jagušky Part II starters and small plates

Let us start at the beginning. Need a small bite to whet the appetite? A little nibble to get the gastric juices flowing? I hope you are hungry. Klobása is the Czech word for sausage. This one is a wonderful pork sausage, fried with punctured skin to crisp the thick natural casings nicely. The uncooked sausage has almost a black skin. Not too fatty because of the punctured skin, it's nice and meaty. Eaten with very good mustard and some freshly grated horseradish it is divine. The horseradish is grated but doesn't have too much of a kick unless you really chew it, the longer you chew the more horseradish kick you get.


The next starter is was a piece of beef brisket. Obviously cooked very low very slow, the salty tender kick of well brined beef, overall just good quality meat that hasn't been screwed up. The brisket is basically the chest of a cow, the big chunk of meat that it rests on when it lies down. It's got huge muscle fibers and tons of collagen running through the meat, making it super tough and chewy, but if you very very slowly cook the meat at very low temperatures all of the collagen, instead of binding up into tough chewy wads, instead relaxes and turns into more of a jello like consistency between every muscle fiber, making it soft, flavorful and amazingly tender.

Add a big dollop of mustard and more grated horseradish and you have yourself a first class starter.

They claim Goulash as their own traditional food pretty much everywhere in the former Austria-Hungarian empire and Balkan states. It's a pretty basic cattleman's stew. The most traditional recipes call for very tough cuts of beef, onions, and paprika(hot or mild). Just like American chili the ingredient lists just grow from there. Purists say you don't need any other herbs or spices then the onion and the Paprika, but you could add garlic, bay leave, thyme, etc etc etc. You can add some root vegetables, and anything else you would use in a stew. This one from U Jagušky is a pretty basic thick goulash with beef and they served bramboráky (potato pancakes) on the side. Simple, easy and hearty.
Next the king of the sausages. The blood sausage. A mix of pork blood and a lot of little chunks of fat and mince meat. Seasoned lightly. Their menu called it a "andouille" style blood sausage but it's definitely not smoked and not cajun. I think it must have been a mistranslation on their menu. It's a very classical Czech blood sausage. Boiled, and served with potatoes mixed with sauerkraut.
The flavor of blood sausage is one that isn't very familiar to most Americans. Blood on the whole is not often consumed in the US. What a shame. This sausage was almost entirely made of coagulated blood without the rice or starch filling common to a lot of French, Spanish and Italian blood sausages. This gives an honest and strong flavor of blood. Cooked blood tastes, looks and smells absolutely nothing like fresh human blood. The flavor and aroma are much closer to the smell of cooked liver, kidney or marrow. The flavor isn't as overpowering as liver, but it has a very similar taste, perhaps because the liver is basically I giant blood filter?

Actually it has a flavor very similar to marrow, which makes sense because the marrow is "stem" cells that will produce all the blood in your body your entire life, so I guess the similar taste makes sense. (Side note, if you don't like the taste of bone marrow... You are wrong)


Now that we've gotten our appetite started with a few light bites, should we move on to the main course? What? Full? But we haven't even had our 1.95kg(4.29 lbs) pork knee yet! What about the cheese course? Don't worry, Czech restaurants usually come fully equipped with a wheel barrow to take you home.

-Nom!

U Jagušky part I

As soon as we got off the metro to our little place out in praha(prague to the rest of us) 9 we were confronted by this little bustling restaurant, U Jagušky. Literally it translates to At the Jagušky, we never found anyone who could properly translate what Jagušky means. We just think it has something to do with witches.

The inside was covered in murals of fairytale stories presumably from the traditional czech cannon. Unfortunitely I don't know any czech fairytales, Altough this one is teaching mermaids to drink I believe.
Also creepy witches lanterns
And really good beer.
They only sell Pilsner Urquell at this bar. And it's really really good. This type of beer is called Tank beer, and you can only really get it in the Czech republic. It's an unfiltered unpasturized type of beer which is stored in large tanks under the restaurants. I heard that large tanker trucks back up to a restaurant and pump the beer into a specifically designed tank. This makes the bottom fermented pilsner style lager, really come alive. Pilsner Urquell I've had in the states was tinny, overly floral, and not a very pleasant drink at all.
While it would be possible to write a whole blog entirely devoted to the beers we have encountered on our trip around the world, I think I'll leave that to the more beer inclined to write about.

For the next couple of posts I am going to delve deeply into the menu of this restaurant, because well basically we ate almost everything in it.


-Nom!

Still almost Czech food

The one thing I have to say about the czech people and food. They really enjoy their food. Almost every plate of food I ate in the Czech republic was delicious, and well presented. Food both for the eyes and the stomach.
This extended to a little pizza place in Praha 9 about a block from "Ubitovani Prokopka" where we lived for almost 3 weeks. This was a tiny little family run pizza shop in a tiny neighborhood at the outskirts of Prague. Still you can tell they take a lot of pride in their craftsmanship. Fresh toppings, good pizza oven they kept well tended. They turned the pizza 3 times in the oven so it was perfectly cooked all around. They made really really thin crust style pizzas that were a delight to eat.

This one has chicken, tomatoes, bacon, garlic, tomato sauce, cream and nice fresh mozzarella. yum yum and perfectly cooked in my opinion.
This pizza had jalapeno peppers bacon ham and a whole egg on top. I'll admit the whole egg was a little strange on a pizza but the nice spicy peppers more then made up for it. OK I'll admit this isn't the prettiest pizza ever but their only transgression was to make it too big for the box. You know me you can't have too much of a good thing, even if your stupid pizza box doesn't agree with me.

We went a couple times and I was always pleased with their pizzas, and check it out!

George Clooney pizza box, Florence, Italy
This travel blog photo's source is TravelPod page: George Clooney pizza box, Florence, Italy

George Clooney is making the pizza! This is a stand in photo because we seem to have lost the photos I took of the box :(.

Anywhoo, Great pizza. I swear the next post will be about traditional Czech food.

-NOM!

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Czech Cuisine, almost

So I have a lot to say about Czech cuisine. And I'm going to get to it in just a few posts. I'll probably have a whole week of posts about Czech foods, beer and dining. But first some decidedly unCzech food in the middle of Prague.

While the Czech Republic was under the harsh thumb of the communists, they played hosts for other peoples also under soviet rule. A large number of North Vietnamese people came to study, work and live here in the Czech Republic. The so called Vietcong, and others from the north moved here to attend schools or as guest workers, and they have stayed. There are 2 main Vietnamese enclaves in a Prague. A large unnamed compound in Malešice and TTTM(Trung Tâm Thương Mại for anyone who was curious)Sapa in Libus between Praha 10 and Praha 11.

Both are massive sections of warehouse space that has been broken up into small stands where cheap Asian goods are sold in bulk.
Plastic toys,
clothes,
utensils,
wedding dresses,
mannequins,
In fact whole mannequin families probably hundreds if not thousands of sellers, stockers, and buyers. What kind of food do you think they serve here. Pho of course! We were looking for an authentic bowl of Hanoi style Pho.(pronounced fuh)
We went to the TTTM Sapa compound to try a bowl of Pho bo which basically is a beef broth soup with rice noodles and some fresh vegetables and beef thrown in to order. The broth is left simmering for hours to extract all of the flavor from the beef and it individually served into bowls where the noodles, vegetables, herbs and meat are all cooked a la minute(to order)
We got our bowl from the restaurant
Which was the site of Anthony Bourdain's filming of his show No Reservations. However he didn't actually eat at this shop, more on that later. Here is our steaming bowl of Pho on a cold rainy day that was perfect for Pho.


How about a little glamor shot of my nice tendon-y beef. This is the good stuff people. A little bite, and pure protein goodness.Mmm it's making me hungry just looking at it. This was an amazing bowl of Pho, but actually the best we had was at the large unnamed complex in Malešice. There are no signs to lead you to the right place, and it's a long complicated route from Metro to the bus system to this marketplace. But this bowl of Pho with marinated pork was one of the best bowls of Pho I have had in my life. Perfectly clear broth but full of flavor. Nice firm noodles and the best most tender delicious meat.... MMMM


This was actually the dish that Anthony Bourdain had in TTTM SAPA Bún ốc. Basically it's rice noodles cooked in Snail broth, with a lot of tomatoes in the broth. Lots of greens and big hunks of fried tofu, more tomatoes and a big handful of snails. Jess loved this soup a lot and I really wish that I could have liked it more, but I mean EWWWW--- Tomatoes in STOCK? it's like tomato soup, one of the few things on the planet I just can't stand. After adding some garlic flavored vinegar and spicy red sauce I thought the balance of the stock was a lot better. But I still just can't like tomato soup.On the other hand the snails were quite a delight. The very hard texture of boiled snails, but tender enough to eat comfortably. The stock was heavily flavored with snail shells I think and the tofu, greens, onions and everything else was cooked perfectly. This uses a smaller vermicelli rice noodle then the traditional fat Pho noodle.
MM MM snails and this place doesn't skimp on the snails either.

There is only one photo I wish I could show you but we never got a non-blurry picture. This is a large compound with a lot of people working in it. So everywhere at lunch time the restaurants are delivering food, mostly soups. This is all done on bike. So there are people riding bikes everywhere quite fast balancing 2-4 huge bowls of Pho on a tray with one hand. Too bad they were traveling too fast to get a good picture.

-NOM!